2006 Proto Matrix PM6 Disassembly / Maintenance Tutorial

[Macky]

Let’s start of with a Few comments on the new 06 Proto Matrix. I found the 05Proto Matrix awful looking but performed excellent, but needed much attention. Dye took on the task and WOW the Proto Matrix 06 is all new with some of these great new features:

1. All new body that is absolute stunning (ASA is no longer separate)
2. New grip frame contour matched to the frame (same trigger)
3. Clamping feedneck (definite plus)
4. New solenoid and its beefy definitely up for the task
5. New bolt DYE has included the Low Pressure back cap
6. New LPR
7. Proto 2 piece barrel and very nicely done.
8. New on/off that is easy to operate.
9. Something I liked, It included every Allen wrench you would need.

Same from last year:

1. Eyes/ eye covers
2. Board/ trigger

Onto the Rebuild or NIB what should I do first:

*The first thing I would like to point out is you can shoot the PM6 just by slapping a Loader and Tank on and you are ready. As like most everyone likes we like to tweak a bit.*

Tools/Parts list:

1. DYE Allen wrench set (I used the one right out fo the box)
2. Small Phillips screwdriver
3. O-ring removal tool (I use a dull corn cobb pick or dental picks work nice too)
4. Lube (I prefer slick honey)
5. 10/32 threaded screw
6. (2) #17 Buna O-ring (017 N70 or 017 BN70)
7. (2) Towels



And if you un-familiar with some of the parts or locations here is and exploded view of the Proto Matrix from the user manual.



Prep Area:

It’s always good to be organized so your setup may vary but in the end do what works for you. I use one towel for placement of all the parts and one for cleaning. For this rebuild I used an Olive PM6 provided by KITSAP SPORTS.

Ensure the PM6 is depressurized and remove the barrel and Loader



Step 1: Remove Grips

Remove (3) 8-32 x 5/16 screws using the 3/32 allen wrench securing the grips on the left side of the PM6. Now wedge the lose grips under the trigger guard to keep the grip out of the way and set screws aside. You should have full access to the board now.



Step 2: Remove/Replace the battery

I highly recommend replacing the stock battery although it will work. The battery in this PM6 registered only 8.4 volts. Anything below 7.5 volts and you will see a decrease in performance.



Step 3: Remove board wiring connectors

Caution: Do not pull on the wires to remove the connector, this can lead to wire breakage

Only remove the solenoid and battery harness connector (2 wires Red/Black and 4 wires Red/Black/Blue/Yellow).

Caution: Do not remove the eye ribbon cable yet

Carefully remove the connectors with the use of your finger or a small tool of choice, the small Phillips screwdriver worked for me to pry it up gently.



Step 4: Board/ Eye ribbon cable removal

Using a small Phillips screw driver first remove the bottom then the top screw holding the board in place.



Careful the eye connector is still attached. Now remove the board gently pulling up on the left side to allow clearance for the LED and pushbutton when removing the board.



Now remove the eye cable by pushing 1 of the 2 tab on either side of the eye ribbon connect up towards the top of the board. Repeat with other side and remove ribbon cable. A small tool can be used to assist. I like to leave the Eye Ribbon Cable attched to the board it just makes it easier to remove. Set board aside

Step 5: Remove Hyper 2 inline regulator

This is easy lefty loosey, righty tighty. I would not recommend taking apart the Hyper 2 it needs time to break in and the DYE Slick Lube is great during the break in period.



Step 6: Remove Frame from Body

Using a 3/32 allen wrench unscrew (1) 8-32 x 5/8 screw from the from of the frame and (1) 8-32 x 5/16 screw from the rear of the frame. Set screws aside



Separate frame from body, ensuring that the wire are free and do not get snagged on anything. Remove trigger spring and set Frame aside.



Step 7: Remove Bolt

Using a 1/4 allen wrench unscrew the bolt counter clockwise and remove bolt. Set bolt aside.



Step 8: Remove LPR

Before I told you not to do anything with the Hyper 2 cause it needed a break in period. The LPR needs a break in period too, but I prefer to clean it up. I do not like the fact of an over lubed LPR spitting tons of lube into the Solenoid.

First using a 5/64 allen wrench unscrew the set screw holding the LPR in place and set aside.



Next using a 1/4 allen wrench unscrew the cap to gain access to the LPR. You should now be looking at the silver housing for the LPR and the brass adjustment screw in the middle of the housing. Screw the 10/32 threaded screw from you pre-assembled tools and screw it into the brass adjustment screw and pull away from the body. I was able to use my fingers to do this. The use of a pair of pliers can be used to assist. Instead of the 10/32 threaded screw a breech rod from the LED/LCD matrix can be used to accomplish removal of the LPR.



Remove 10/32 threaded screw from brass adjustment screw, using 3/16 allen wrench remove the brass adjustment screw from LPR housing.



Use same allen wrench to push the piston out of the LPR housing. Other similar items such as pencil using eraser end can be used.



Remove Spring from piston and set LPR parts aside.

Step 9: Take a break

If you have the time, it is always good to step away from your work for a sec. This allows you to look at what you have done and make sure you are ready to go on with the task at hand. You should have something like this in front of you.



Ok breaks over on to the next step!

[Macky]

OK now that you have this pile of parts in front of you, this next part is how to put it back together. Also included is a few tips on performance and maintenance.

Step 1: Bolt Maintenance

Lets talk lube first, Preferred choice of Lube is Slick honey. If you do not have Slick Honey, a mix of DOW33 with Gold Cup oil is recommend. 3 parts DOW33 to 1 part Gold Cup works great. It should have the consistency of Pudding. Straight DOW33 is OK too but requires more frequent cleaning.

I know a lot of people said slick honey does not perform well in the cold. I have found that this is mostly due to the over lubing with Slick Honey. I have played plenty in the cold and I still use Slick Honey with no drop off. In the picture below is what I will refer to as a DAB of Lube. Sorry its the best technical term I can think of right now. My DAB might be a little bigger cause I have big hands so use best judgment.

DAB of Lube


Now that we have cover lubrication, onto changing some o-rings.

New O-rings can be obtained from:
www.compulsivepaintball.com
www.air-oil.com
www.mcmaster.com

First the 017 UR70 clear o-ring in the tophat and beercan need to be replaced. If you don't have your bolt disassembled do it now. Using an o-ring removal tool remove the 017 o-rings from the tophat and beercan.



Now replace them with the new 017 BN70 (Buna) orings.



This by far will will make your bolt butter smooth, allowing for lower LPR and Dwell settings. DYE uses the 017 UR70 (Urethane) o-rings because a lot of debris/paint/dirt can get in the breech and cause the o-ring on the beer can to leak. They did not want to get a ton of repairs to replace an o-ring. I have not found the need for a tougher o-ring. So if the Buna makes the Bolt smoother, then I am using it.

Now to actually lubing the bolt. Take (1) DAB of lube and lube the Bolt sail o-rings and the metal in front and behind the bolt sail.



Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube the bolt plunger.



Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube the beercan, start with the 017 O-ring and then coat the inner surface. Use the excess lube and apply to the outer #20 o-rings. It won't be that much but you don't need a lot.



Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube lube the tophat start with the 017 o-ring and the inner surface of the tophat.



If needed just get a touch more lube and lube the 013 o-ring, then use the excess and lube the outer #20 and the portion of the bolt stem that the 013 o-ring makes contact.



Use the excess lube on your finger to lube the #20 o-rings on the Back cap.

PM6 Low Pressure Back Cap


Now Reassemble the bolt and place the bolt tip o-ring back on.



Using your finger grab hold of the bolt tip and cycle the bolt a few time to move the lube around. The pics above are already lube notice there was not much at all. It does not take alot of lube with Slick Honey.

Re-insert bolt into the Body and use a 1/4 allen wrench to tighten.



Step 2: LPR Lubing/Reassemble/Installing

I like to use Slick Honey on the LPR because you do not have to use alot and it will not lead to excessive lube clogging up your solenoid.

Using (1) DAB of lube lube the piston o-ring and the rest of the piston and the inner surface of the LPR housing. Then apply (1) DAB of lube to the Spring. Place spring back on piston and re-insert into LPR housing.


OK I know I am re-using some pics saves time and space.

Now take a excess lube still on your finger and lube the o-ring on the adjustment screw. Using 3/16 allen wrench re-install adjustment screw in to LPR housing. Tighten until tool tight do not try to torque it in cause all you are doing is cutting into the seal in the adjustment screw.



Take (1) DAB of lube and lube all (3) 012 o-rings on the outer portion of the LPR

Re-install LPR into body make sure the indent for the set screw on the LPR is facing the set screw hole for proper alignment.


Disregard the 10/32 threaded screw its not need for this

Reinstall LPR set screw using 5/64 allen wrench.



Reinstall front LPR cap using 1/4 allen wrench.

Step 3: Trigger Adjustment

For this part I am not going into detail. I will explain what I do and set most of the trigger for Notorious this way.

First I cut the spring.



Then I use the longer portion and strech it out a little bit just so it rises above the Frame.



I like to adjust the trigger kinda short with a slight bit play before and after the limit switch is activated.

Step 4: Install the Frame

Using a 3/32 allen wrench install the front grip frame screw then the rear. Do not tighten down all the way this will allow for adjustment of the frame.

Caution: Ensure the Solenoid wires and Eye Ribbon Cable are not pinched between the frame and body





Step 5: Reinstall the Board

Slide the Eye Ribbon Cable into the connector and push tabs on both sides of the connector down towards in the direction of the bottom of the board. Properly connected will look like the pic below. I have seen some that are only partially connected and you can see the (3) silver portions sticking out of the top of the connector.



Slide the board into place, make sure the push buttons are still in the frame. Then using the small phillips screwdriver secure the board to the frame using the (2) board mounting screws.



Reinstall Solenoid and Battery wiring harness connectors.



Reinstall battery



Arrange the wires and ribbon cables



Reinstall the Hyper 2 inline regulator



Reinstall (3) grip screws using 3/32 allen wrench.

And we are done.

[Macky]

So after doing all the above what do you get out of it.

I went out to the field for play I had my Dwell set at 14, I used this sticky to set my LPR and in line pressures:

http://forums.matrixowner.com/showthread.php?t=8504

I was able to run with the LPR at 3 turns, I know I could have gone lower but the PM6 was new I wanted it to break in.

At the chrono I fire about 30 clear shots, then 3 over the chrono.

290
283
283

Sounds good to me, fired off along string of paint and not one sign of drop off. I never experienced FSDO. I was also using a Tadao Proto Matrix Board with M5 programming, along with a Boost Halo with angry board, on NXL Full Auto Uncapped and PSP Burst Uncapped the PM6 shot entire hoppers with no problems. Man got to love 06 Proto Matrix + Tadao.

I did have some barrel breaks, it was about 40 degrees and Raining so i guess the paint did swell up a bit. The nice thing was I was able to shoot threw it, so props to the new 2 piece Proto barrel.

I shot about a case of paint. I tried to pay attention to air consumption and efficiency but shooting people was far to much fun. My best guess would be about 8 and a hopper from a full 68/45 which is good by me. All day air is a standard at every field I know so it does matter much to me.

Hope you enjoy this long multiple post. It took me about 6 hours to create. I'm not to computer smart.

Later
Macky

[Kevin17]

Very impressive. This helps so much the pics are very clear and in detail. Very nicE!

[magman007]

Awesome job macky, i will be doing one of these probabally tomorow or thursday for the dm6, i was wondering, are you going to be doing solenoid dissassembly and cleaning or not? if not, i may venture into it when i do my dm6 tutorial.

[Macky]

I am strong believer of why tear apart a perfectly good working solenoid if you don't have too. But hey if you have and extra by all means why not.

[Architect]

Magman if you want to be the official support guy for when kids ruin their solenoids , by all means, create that tutorial I'm not touching that one with a 10 foot pole.

[magman007]

well, the old noid wasnt too difficult, actually it was rather easy... once i take a look at it, i will either decide to go for it, or decide to run away and throw the gripframe back on

[sniper69a]

Great job, That helps me so much as im a noob to the matrix family.

Thanks alot man.

[forsaken_id]

Beautiful and well thought out directions, couldn't ask for much more!!!
--Rome