2006 DYE Matrix DM6 Disassembly/Maintenance Tutorial.

[Buckeye Matrix]

DM6 Disassembly/Assembly Tutorial.

Matrixowner.com is not responsible for any damage you may incur while attempting any of the following procedures. You should not attempt this procedure unless you are confident and skilled in airsmithing. This is a step by step tutorial accompanied with pictures to help explain how to take apart your dm6, do routine maintenance, and then reassemble your marker. We would like to thank Dye Precision, Dave Youngblood and Robin Niehaus and the MO staff for their support.

Step 1. The first thing when you receive your Dye DM6 is to open the box and make sure you have the following items.

You will need a well lit work space that includes a way to keep the small screws, springs, and general pieces intact and organized. You should be able to take apart your entire dm6 with the tools provided by Dye. However, I recommend that you have the following:
• The dye Allen set
• an oring pic
• a couple rags
• Slick Honey
• canned air
• a pencil with a flat eraser
Step 2. Get your manual from your box and read it from cover to cover. This will take about 20 minutes for those with a high school education or higher!! I have a lot of experience with matrixes, however, I still had the manual out and open as I went along just to be safe. You will see it time and again in this tutorial on my work station. The manual is an excellent reference tool and Dye went to a lot of trouble to make a simple and user friendly manual with fantastic pictures. Don’t be afraid to use it.


Step 3. Removal of the Fusebolt.
Ok, getting started I recommend you take out the fusebolt first and clean the dye lube off. Use the ¼ Allen from your Allen set. Turn the back cap counter clockwise and pull the bolt out.

If just your back cap comes out then use something to push the rest of the bolt out from the front.

Take the fuse bolt apart.

You can replace the #17 orings in the beer can and the top hat with Buena 017 BN70 orings. These are the black orings. These orings can be purchased at the following locations.
www.compulsivepaintball.com
www.air-oil.com
www.mcmaster.com


First the 017 UR70 clear o-ring in the top hat and beer can need to be replaced. If you don't have your bolt disassembled do it now. Using an o-ring removal tool remove the 017 o-rings from the top hat and beer can.



Step 1: Bolt Maintenance

Quoted from Macky and agreed upon by the Agents at MO.

“Lets talk lube first, preferred choice of Lube is Slick honey. If you do not have Slick Honey, a mix of DOW33 with Gold Cup oil is recommended. 3 parts DOW33 to 1 part Gold Cup works great. It should have the consistency of Pudding. Straight DOW33 is OK too but requires more frequent cleaning.”

“I know a lot of people said slick honey does not perform well in the cold. I have found that this is mostly due to the over lubing with Slick Honey. I have played plenty in the cold and I still use Slick Honey with no drop off. In the picture below is what I will refer to as a DAB of Lube. Sorry it’s the best technical term I can think of right now. My DAB might be a little bigger because I have big hands so use best judgment.”

“This by far will make your bolt butter smooth, allowing for lower LPR and Dwell settings. DYE uses the 017 UR70 (Urethane) o-rings because a lot of debris/paint/dirt can get in the breech and cause the o-ring on the beer can to leak. They did not want to get a ton of repairs to replace an o-ring. I have not found the need for a tougher o-ring. So if the Buna makes the Bolt smoother, then I am using it.”

Now to actually lubing the bolt. Take (1) DAB of lube and lube the Bolt sail o-rings and the metal in front and behind the bolt sail.


Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube the bolt plunger.


Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube the beer can, start with the 017 O-ring and then coat the inner surface. Use the excess lube and apply to the outer #20 o-rings. It won't be that much but you don't need a lot.

Next take (1) DAB of lube and lube the top hat start with the 017 o-ring and the inner surface of the top hat.

If needed just get a touch more lube and lube the 013 o-ring, then use the excess and lube the outer #20 and the portion of the bolt stem that the 013 o-ring makes contact.

Use the excess lube on your finger to lube the #20 o-rings on the Back cap.
Set your Fusebolt aside and out of the way. It will be one of the last pieces you put in your gun during reassembly.

Step 3 . Take out your 1/16 Allen wrench. Simply insert the Allen wrench into the hole in the eye cover to access the retaining screw.


As you back the screw out, the plate will be pushed up. You will now have access to the detents, detent springs, the eye and eye wire and the acrylic insert that allows the self cleaning action. You want to take out the eyes and pull out the acrylic inserts. I decided to do this just in case I accidentally pull on the eye wires during disassembly of the body. This will allow the eyes to move a little and hopefully not get yanked on and cause them to crimp or break. Make sure you put your acrylic eye inserts some place safe for reassembly.



Step 4. Taking off the Ultralight grip frame.
You will first need to take off the UL sticky grips. Use a 3/32 Allen to remove all six screw from the grip.


Next you will need to disconnect the solenoid wire harness and the eye wire harness so they do not rip or break when pulling off the frame.




Next you will need to pry out the battery. Do this from the bottom of the battery so you do not put undue stress on the terminals.



I want to quickly point out the unique way that Dye has improved their rail system. They have mounted a cam that can be accessed through the grip to tighten the asa. I think that when the dm5 came out the idea of a built in dovetail was ground breaking. That was my favorite feature on that model. However, to access that old set screw correctly you had to take out the board so you did not damage the computer chip terminals when tightening. Dye is the best company for realizing engineering breakthroughs, but also listening to us customers to make good ideas better and more efficient. Now you do not need to loctite the asa set screw, just adjust from outside the grip.

Remove the Hyper 2 to get it out of the way.



Using your 3/32 Allen loosen the front frame screw by turning it counter clockwise. Once you feel it break loose just turn it 1 full turn counter clockwise. You do not want it to come completely loose.



Using your 3/32 Allen loosen the rear frame screw by turning it counter clockwise. Take this screw out and place it in a safe place.



Now carefully remove the Ultralight grip frame making sure not to pull on the solenoid and eye wires.



I just wanted to point out the little led that is supplied for the HUD in the grip. My pin punch is point at it.



Step 5. Removing the dm6 board.
Using a small Phillips screwdriver carefully and slowly remove the two screws holding the frame. When that is done gently pull the board out by touching only the very top of the board. Do not touch the board at any time. Any static electricity in you your body could fry your board. When you get the board up just lightly grasp the sides and put the board in a place free of static charge. Once the board is out your on/off and eye buttons will come out easily. Put these in a safe place.






Step 6. Removing the trigger.
The first thing you need to do is remove the trigger pin. This is the pin that the trigger pivots on. You will be glad to know that the little elves at Dye cooked up another engineering plus. You will not longer have to pound out the trigger pin. It is threaded on one side so you can unscrew it out and then gently poke it out with a punch or something small.



Next you will need to take out the adjustment screws. The screw with fewer threads will always be the forward screw.


Gently slide the trigger out of the top of the frame after you have taken the tension spring out from behind the trigger. You can adjust the tension spring from the front of the trigger blade. This is also a new feature to matrixes. Instead of changing springs you can now adjust the tension. If you want it light unscrew the set screw counter clockwise, and do the reverse if you want it tighter. I found no need to take the spring out now.



Step 6. OPTIONAL. Removing your ON/OFF.
I do not recommend this step unless you are having a leaking issue with your on/off. Don’t mess with it if it aint broke.
First you will need to take out the frame screw. Then you will need to loosen and take out the on/off set screw. Once you have done this you can pull the on/off out of the front of the marker. If there is a leak it is most likely the oring that lies on the on/off versus the two 009 BN70 orings that wrap around it. The oring that lies on the on/off is a 009 UR90.





Step 7. Removing the solenoid/ exploded view of solenoid. I do not recommend you take out your solenoid and/or take it apart. You are asking for a world of trouble and Dye considers this a breach of warranty. I have included the steps in this tutorial so everyone can see how it is done and what the pieces of the new solenoid looks like. I will have you know that I had to take the gun apart 3 times after I reassembled it just to stop a leak from the solenoid. The eye wires kept sneaking over and under the solenoid so it would not seal. This put a small indentation on one of the wires and then caused the manifold seal ring to come off. Luckily I knew the problem, but someone not familiar with this type of leak could spend days trying to fix it and would ultimately send it back to dye. At this point you would get a notice that they broke the warranty and would have to pay labor. This is why you should not mess with it. I will post the pics. They are self explanatory so there will be no text instruction on this step.











Step 7. Taking out the lpr and cleaning it.
Take off the lpr back cover behind the marker using a 1/4” Allen wrench.



Uncsrew the lpr set screw using a 5/64 Allen wrench.



Pull out the lpr by screwing a 10/32 threaded rod or screw into the seal retainer, the brass piece, and then pull it out.




Now you need to take this lpr apart and clean all the dye lube of off it and then re-lube it with slick honey or some other accepted matrix lube. First you need to push out the piston from the casing. You can do this safely by using a pencil eraser and pushing the piston out. You do not want to use something hard to do this as you will damage the piston and it won’t seal against the reg seat, (main seal.) When you get the piston out, you need to pull out the spring also. Clean out the reg housing with a cue tip and get the green gunk out of there.

Using (1) DAB of lube the piston o-ring and the rest of the piston and the inner surface of the LPR housing. Then apply (1) DAB of lube to the spring. Place spring back on piston and re-insert into LPR housing.






CONGRADULATIONS! YOU HAVE NOW TAKEN YOUR DM6 COMPLETELY APART. BEFORE YOU START TO CRY FOR MOMMY, DON’T WORRY, JUST REVERSE YOUR STEPS AND GO SLOWLY.

REASSEMBLY.
Step 8.
Start with the lpr. Once it is lubed correctly just put the spring back in the housing. Slide the piston back through the spring, and then screw in the brass seal retainer. Insert the lpr back into the body of the gun making sure the indentation of the lpr matches up with the set screw hole. Push in the lpr and tighten down the set screw. Do not torque on the set screw.


Your solenoid and on/off should already be in the body since you did not take them out. Right? (Wink!)

Step 9 . Install the eye inserts, ball detents, and eyes back into the body. Put your inserts in first. Then press the eyes back into the insert. If you have the wrong insert then the eye will not stay in it. Once this is done put the detent in its hole and the spring. Put the eye cover on and tighten down.








Step 10

Putting Ultralight trigger frame back together. You will need to reinstall the trigger pin and the adjustment screws. Make sure the adjustment screw that has the few threads is in the farthest hole to the right. Once you have the trigger in you can add the spring behind the trigger. You will need to completely reset your trigger to how you like it. I suggest you do this once you have the gun together and you can hear the solenoid click when the trigger actuates.







Next you will need to put in the on/off-eye buttons before you put in the board. Once this is done, then install the board by holding on the edges of the board and laying it down in the frame gently. Using a small screwdriver, screw the board down. DO NOT TIGHTEN VERY HARD. JUST TIGHTEN THE BOARD SCREWS SO THEY ARE SNUG.






Next you can put the frame back on the body. Make sure you do not pinch the solenoid wires and the eye wires. Slide the frame under the front frame screw near the asa and then tighten down both frame screws.





Plug the solenoid harness and the eye harness back in carefully.




Step 10
Now put your grips back on and your hyper II back on and put your fuse bolt back in and you are FINITO!!! Good luck and don’t try this at home without matrixowner!!

[magman007]

AWESOME JOB Buckeye!

[Macky]

Holy Poop!!! That was twice as good as mine. Very well done.

[2NYCE]

very nice work.

[Buckeye Matrix]

Originally Posted by Macky

Holy Poop!!! That was twice as good as mine. Very well done.

That is because a buckeye is always better than a golden domer!

[magman007]

you know, we should just quit this rivalry and have you 2 both admit that Penn state and Kansas State owns you both
EDIT: BUCKEYE
Well I know that we spanked Kansas State in the Fiesta bowl 2 years ago so that argument is a wash. LOL
EDIT: magman007

it happens

[Kevin17]

I see you had your friend Mr. Miller Lite to help you out with this project!
EDIT: Buckeye.
UHHHHHH LOL, yep i had a mgd to help me along. !!!

[Linkin Park]

nice. very extensive and detailed.

[the incubus]

Nice work. It seems the way I designed Bobby's Manuals has had a bigger influence than I thought.



ROB.

[mmend002]

Very nice Buckeye.